212 six lifter replacement

quicKd

I twisted off one of my lifter adjusting bolts on my 1939, 212 six while trying to adjust the valves. Is there any way possible to replace that lifter without pulling the whole engine. If there is a trick to removing the adjuster bolt (stud) that is broken off flush with the top of the lifter body? That would really simplify things. Anything?

Geoff

Yes, you can replace the lifter. Ensure the cam is at the lowest point, using a scissor type spring lifter, raise the spring and remove the horseshoe valve retainer. Lower the spring, and using a screwdriver between the coils, raise the valve up as high as you can so it is wedged up in the combustion chamber. Then manipulate the spring out over the retainer. Remove the clamp and the whole assembly will lift out. Somebody should have a spare tappet bolt. If you can't find one locally I can send you one from New Zealand.

quicKd

Wow, Geoff, What an honor to hear from you. I read your articles in the WTN every month. I have been building this "39" pick-up from practically scratch for several years. I had it running when I snapped the adjuster bolt on one of the lifters. I did get one from Al Saffron, but still having problems. The lifter of course has the shoe on the bottom and appears to not be able to lift out without the sleeve, and it looks like the sleeve should lift out but only comes up about an inch and stops hard. I can see the small hole in the lower end of the sleeve and have a nail in to hold it. Should I try to force it or am I missing something? It is tappet Number 9 from the front.

Geoff

You should be able to just lever the lifter guide out. Grip it with large pliers and a bit of a twist and it should come out fine. YOu can take the guide out, and then the lifter is easier to get out at an angle,. Good luck

quicKd

Hi Geoff,

Yes, Great success, I borrowed a long needle nose pliers and worked it out with some effort. The replacement is in and am going to put things back together today. This saved me days of unnecessary work, expense, and risk. Hudson must have for seen this happening and incorporated this trick into their engine design. I used the large "C" clamp valve spring compressor and was able to lift the spring and valve with clip still in place without having to possibly damage the now fine edge of the reground valve by wedging it against the top of the combustion chamber. To keep the valve from dropping back down, I put a short strip of masking tape across the bottom of the clamp to hold the valve up out of the way. It was a little harder to work around, but the valve wouldn't stay up without putting more force on it against the top of the combustion chamber than I wanted to.

Thanks for your help. I greatly enjoy reading your articles.

Dave Quick

Geoff

Glad you got it fixed. It is not an easy task, but far better than taking the head off.