Gas mileage on a 54 Special?
With the restoration completed, I am getting to drive my 54 Special on a regular basis. Being that this is my first Hudson, I am wondering what kind of gas mileage I should expect? Right now I am squeezing out about 9 to 10 mpg for around town easy driving. Here are the specifics;
Engine is 308 with Twin H and Dual Range Hydro. Engine has about 1,100 miles on it now.
Am running a Clifford Dual Exhaust header going into one exhaust pipe.
Timing is set at about 8 degrees advance, does not ping under load.
Valves are set at 12 and 14
Spark plugs have a nice brown color, showing no signs of engine running rich.
Have checked to insure that brakes are not dragging.
My concern is that the engine runs so good that I hate to mess with it. On the other hand I am tired of it pulling to one side when I pass a gas station.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Doug
Engine is 308 with Twin H and Dual Range Hydro. Engine has about 1,100 miles on it now.
Am running a Clifford Dual Exhaust header going into one exhaust pipe.
Timing is set at about 8 degrees advance, does not ping under load.
Valves are set at 12 and 14
Spark plugs have a nice brown color, showing no signs of engine running rich.
Have checked to insure that brakes are not dragging.
My concern is that the engine runs so good that I hate to mess with it. On the other hand I am tired of it pulling to one side when I pass a gas station.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Doug
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Comments
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Doug , the best I ever got on a Hornet with automatic was 16 mpg at steady 55 mph.
My commodore 6 ,262 with OD and 4.10 gears would get honest 19 mpg at same speed.
Around town driving for Hornet is 10-14 Mpg .
The Speedos are not usually accurate , making it hard to check actual milage,
but you know when your stopping a lot for gas.
Todays gas does not seem to give the milage the old gas did , but it's nice to
be able to breath.
Roy0 -
First off, is your odometer correct? Take your car out onto a section of Interstate highway for a few miles, comparing your odometer reading to the green mileage markers along the way. In this way you can develop a percentage factor to multiply your odometer reading with, and correctly calculate your gasoline mileage at fill-up time. Most odometers are off by a few percentage points.
Of course, around-town driving isn't the most conducive to good fuel economy. It would be better to check your mileage after driving to a distance car meet.0 -
First of all I would agree with what has been said .I would then add that you could check the metering rods in the carb, ask Walt first to see what one you should have for your altitude. That may be not the optimum metering rod installed for your local,
Roger0 -
Doug Thanks for providing insight into your restoration and now you driving report.
Early in 1972 I purchased and refurbished a low mileage 1954 Hornet Sedan. While the car only had 22K miles, the engine had seized during a 17 year hibernation. The former owner had placed the car in his garage one night and suffered a stroke. The car sat there until I recovered it. To bring the car back to operational status, the engine and transmission were removed. The engine was completely rebuilt. It took new pistons, rings, valves, guides and bearings. The bore was increased.060 over stock. The aluminum head was replaced with a NOS steel head and everything reassembled to stock specifications. The engine in this car was equipped with twin H and a recently refreshed Hydramatic was affixed to the engine. After the refurbishment and reinstallation the engine was broken in around town and one fast 100 mile freeway trip. After 1000 miles the car settled into an 18 MPG on the road and 15 MPG in town. Before selling the car I took it on several sustained highway speed (60+ MPH) trips of over 400 miles. The MPG got better and the best I recorded was 22 MPG on a cross country all night trip from Omaha Ne to Amarillo TX. That trip was mostly 2 lane driving at 60+ MPH and after dark. For the record the speedometer was accurate in speed and mileage readings as I had it checked as part of the refurbishment.
What I learned about that engine was:
With a proper rebuild on each carburetor they must be adjusted mechanically and with a venturi vacuum balance gauge. Choke mechanisms for each carburetor must work correctly and be balanced between the carburetors. The linkage from the foot feed through the bell crank, cross links an springs for each carburetor effect carburetor balance. Linkage to the transmission MUST BE set according to the Hydramatic manual. If the transmission linkage is incorrectly set the transmission does NOT spin correctly to meet the internal pressures needed to shift at optimum engine performance points.
The temperature of the engine is critical in achieving optimum MPG. I used a Hudson neck with a late model thermostat which was drilled to allow some bypass. The bypass in the OEM housing was blocked with hardwood plug.
Ignition timing was optimized to my altitude using the Hudson ... back off till it pings instructions and fine tuned with a vacuum gauge and the venturi gauges. The venturi gauges are capable of showing the lean and rich roll off points for Twin-H carburetors. I used two; one on each carburetor and it became easy to tune the twin H to optimum performance for my altitude.
While there is plenty of discussion about the integral parts of the carburetors, it has been my experience that Hudson cars found in a specific area generally have been optimized for that area. That will not overcome the fact that internal pieces will wear and if that is the case, replacement will be necessary to obtain optimum performance.
As with anything used and of older technology, it is essential to base expectations on the performance factors that were achieved at the time that engine was new. I suspect your engine is giving you the appropriate results for the configuration you provided.
Thanks again for sharing.
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Ken, your well composed comments pretty much exactly match my experience. I drove a 53 Hornet sedan for ten years as my everyday car. Aluminum Hudson head a set of Clifford headers into a quiet muffler. Clifford H-117 cam--the mechanical equivalent of the 56 hydraulic cam that Jack thought the best for road cars. Many trips up and down the San Francisco to Los Angeles corridor of 400-500 miles each way driven straight through at modern freeway speeds of say 75 mph. With no headwind I would get about 16-17 mpg. Around town, with a heavy foot at stop lights, it was always 10-12 mpg.
Ivan0 -
Doug, my 53 308 .060 over(318cu) gets about 16.5 at @ 60mph and 12 around town. Ethanol in fuel(E-10) loses about 1mpg. Runs Champion H-11 plugs. Elevation is 2500 ft.Timing is set by max vacuum then backed off 1hg, About 5 BTC. Valves set .012intake and .015exhaust.0
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Stories and advise are great and probably right on. But, don't forget to consider that on 10% ethenol fuel, all cars, new and old, are going to get about 4 mpg less than on non ethenol fuel. I am fortunate to be able to buy both in my town and have checked, rechecked and compared multiple times. I run non ethenol for the best gas milage.0
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Aminard, I'm curious, why would a customer purchase ethanol vs regular? Is there a price advantage? In Tucson, Arizona we have no choice. If you still have winter gas in your tank by April 15 the temps can reach mid 90s F, then look out for drivability issues with the combo of ethanol and winter formulation. 4 mpg seems alot of inefficiency, but I would not be surprised, I would be if the cost of a gallon is the same. Ron0
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I know of one station here that has non-ethanol gas... their regular is the price of E10 mid-grade.0
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About 14 mpg so far in my '54 Hornet coupe, mostly rural driving, about 100 miles on rebuilt motor, 89 octane. Twin-H, Clifford header, '56 hydraulic cam, 8.3:1 aluminum head, 7X valves, GM balancer with timing marks (about 8 deg. off-idle, vac. adv. disconnected).0
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