Hudson Coupe 1932 adjust bearings

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hallo,
me again from germany. The engine is running now the first time. Very smooth und quiet, started immediately. Unfortunately there is a noise in the connecting rod bearing, a light knocking, not the valves. We are going to remove the oilpan again and try to adjust the connecting rod bearings, remove the thin shim from every side. My question , when we replace the bearing cap with which turning moment we have to fix the bolt nuts ? What we have to pay attention for ? We did not do this procedure before.
Another problem, the heat riser has two holes, one is closed because there was a crack in the heat riser, closed with something I dont know, the other one is open, we are going to close it with a plug, is it a good idea ?
Thank you for every advice
Juergen

Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    By "turning moment" I believe you mean "torque" (to us Americans!). I'm afraid I do not know the torque setting for the connecting rod bolts but I'll bet someone will!
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    When adjusting the con-rod bearings I have found the best method of checking clearance is to use a 1/4" wide strip of cooking foil folded three times, laid across the bearing. Tighten the bearing up and it should be tight enough so you can hardly turn the shaft, and with it removed you should be able to turn the shaft freely. This will give you the required .001" clearance. It isd essential that you have all other bearings loosened off and the plugs removed when doing this procedure. Tighten the nuts to 35 ft. lbs, and then tighten further to the next castellation to align the split-pin hole. Goodl uck,
    Geoff
  • hudsontech
    hudsontech Senior Contributor
    You might find the 1930-1933 Hudson 8 Service Manual in the online library to be of help.
    Adjusting connecting rod bearings is on page 123, I think it is.

    Go to: http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm , click on 1930-1939 manuals.


    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hallo,
    yes, have a printed service operation manual for this adjustment.
    By the way, the heat riser was cracked and the preowner repaired it with something like epoxid, I dont know how long it works. There is a hole in the heat riser, on the left side it is closed with this material, on the right side you can see it on the foto. what is it good for, we are going to shut it with a plug is it ok ?
    Perhaps somebody has such a heat riser in his part collection for sale, please let me know.

    Regards Juergen
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hello Juergen,
    I have a spare heat riser that you are welcome to buy. Contact me off this thread at HET>fast.da@gmail.com for shipping address and price. (Drop the HET>) Have a good day!
    Del Fast
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hallo,
    with Del´s and Geoff`s help the adjusting of the con rod bearings was succesful and a new heat riser is fitted, the engine now runs like a swiss clock, very smooth. Thanks to you again.
    We let runnig idle the engine about 1 hour or more to level the new adjustment. Unfortunately we experienced that we have oil-loss at the rear end of the crancshaft. There is no oil seal ring. I think it is a reverse thread (excuse me I am not sure to use the correct vocable, I hope you know what I mean). What is the best way to solve this problem without stripping down the enine. I know this problem from my other cars. Once I mounted a little sheet-vat under the engine to catch the oil coming out.
    Thank you for every advice.
    Regards from germany
    Juergen
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Juergen, the most likely cause of oil loss at the rear is that the drain hole is blocked off. There is a drain pipe from the cage assembly around the outside of the back main bearing, and a hole in the sump flange and gasket, which is most likely blocked if you used any sort of sealant when re-fitting the sump. I suggest you remove the sump and inspect this area closely, and that the pipe itself is clear. Good luck,
    Geoff
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Do not try to pack the rear main on a splasher engine. Oil needs to drain down as Geoff stated. Make sure the drain hole in the 2 gaskets are opened and that the drain pipe in the lower pan has a swing door, so when you are climbing a hill, oil does not flow up the pipe. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hallo,
    excellent advice ! Geoff , Walt you are right, that was why we had oil loss at the rear end the tube was blocked. Now the engine was idling (very smooth) for 2 hours again, and we had oil loss at the front...? Perhaps it is normal and you dont notice it when driving..?
    To look for the oil loss at the rear we removed the gearbox and clutch. We stripped down the clutch to see the condition by this way. But we cannot estimate whether the thickness of the cork surface is ok. How thick must it be ? Do I need a new disc with new cork or not ? Also the release bearing, the leather ring of the inner seal is a little bit demaged.

    Regards from germany
    Juergen
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The clutch cork thickness when new is .060 protruding each side of the disc. If it is below .020 " then you need to think about re-corking the plate. As for the front leak, you need to find if it is coming from the timing cover seal, or the gaskets, and replace as necessary, Unfortunately, if it is a bad gasket it can be problematical, as there is a gasket between the timing case and engine plate, and the engine plate and the cylinder block. If the gaskets are bad it is fixable by loosening off the bolts, prize the surfaces apart and squeeze a small quantity of good quality sealant like CRC grey or Loctite 5699, and re-tighten. The front seal is a felt washer. Good luck,
    Geoff
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